Sericulture is a labour-intensive industry in all its phases, namely, cultivation of silkworm food plants, silkworm rearing, silk reeling, and other post-cocoon processes such as twisting, dyeing, weaving, printing and finishing. Reeling of silk is more widespread, with different clusters/traditionally producing distinctive designs and weavers.
India has the distinction of cultivating all the four commercially known varieties of silk, namely, Mulberry, Tasar, Eri and Muga. China leads the world with silk production, India ranks second in respect of world raw silk production.
Increase in production can be achieved through improved silkworm races and hybrids, better technologies in rearing and reeling, evolution of higher leaf yielding mulberry varieties.
Potentials of Sericulture as an income generating operation:
Sericulture is one of the rural based agro industry with global reach. While providing sustainable income and employment opportunities to the rural poor who are the main practitioners, silk production activity fetches an annual export earnings of more than US$600 million. Some unique features of the silk sector are its rural nature, agro based, ecologically and economically sustainable activity for the poor, small and marginal farmers, agriculture labour and women in particular. Many studies indicated that 60% of the activities in the pre-cocoon and post-cocoon sectors are carried out by women.
Sericulture is a labour intensive industry in all its phases. It can generate employment upto 11 persons for every kg of raw silk produced. Out of which more than 6 persons are women.
More than 60.00 lakh persons are employed as full time workers in the production chain out of which 35-40 lakh persons are women.
Ever increasing demand to meet the domestic handloom industry requirements and equally increasing potential for exports provide tremendous opportunities for the women to avail sustainable income generating activities. The need for a new approach for empowering the women though their active participation in the various disciplines of the industry is the need of the hour.
The production technology, however, is sensitive and the demands on the organisational and institutional environment are considerable.
1990’s rising cocoon prices lead to a production increase.
Development Attempts at developing sericulture in the Indonesian Archipelago date back to the 18th century. In the 20th century cocoon production reached is highest level between 1962 and 1966, but collapsed in the 1970’s due to the spread of the pebrine disease.
To enable the textiles and apparel industry to build world class manufacturing capacities to attain and sustain a pre-eminent global position and to withstand competition, a holistic, need-based and balanced approach is proposed to be adopted while formulating schemes and programmes for different segments of the industry. This approach is particularly important for the segments, which did not get adequate attention in the past but are critical to the growth of the textile industry. This would involve creation of a fair and competitive environment and a rational fiscal policy regime to enable the industry to successfully compete on cost and quality parameters in the international market.
Silk’s good absorbency makes it comfortable to wear in warm weather and while active. Its low conductivity keeps warm air close to the skin during cold weather. It is often used for clothing such as shirts, blouses, formal dresses, high fashion clothes, negligees, pyjamas, robes, skirtsuits, sun dresses and underwear.
Silk’s elegant, soft luster and beautiful drape makes it perfect for many furnishing applications. It is used for upholstery, wall coverings, window treatments (if blended with another fiber), rugs, bedding and wall hangings.
While on the decline now, due to artificial fibers, silk has had many uses; parachutes, bicycle tires, comforter filling and artillery gunpowder bags. From the blackpowder era, until roughly World War I, early bulletproof vests were made from silk. A special manufacturing process makes it suitable as non-absorbable surgical sutures. Chinese doctors have used it to make prosthetic arteries. Silk cloth is also used as a material on which to write.
Silk moths lay eggs on specially prepared paper. The eggs hatch and the caterpillars (silkworms) are fed fresh mulberry leaves. After about 35 days and 4 moltings, the caterpillars are 10,000 times heavier than when hatched, and are ready to begin spinning a cocoon. A straw frame is placed over the tray of caterpillars, and each caterpillar begins spinning a cocoon by moving its head in a “figure 8″ pattern. Two glands produce liquid silk and force it through openings in the head called spinnerets. Liquid silk is coated in sericin, a water-soluble protective gum, and solidifies on contact with the air. Within 2-3 days, the caterpillar spins about 1 mile of filament and is completely encased in a cocoon. Most caterpillars are then killed by heat and some are allowed to metamorphose into moths to breed the next generation of caterpillars.
Constraints to the expansion of the Sericultural industry in Africa:
1. Increasing imports of raw silk and silk fabric at low prices from African countries adversely affected the domestic markets thereby distracting farmers and other stakeholders from sericulture activities as it has reduced the remunerative gains for sericulturists, releers and weavers.
2. Obsolete reeling and weaving technology limit productivity and profit margins. With reeling and weaving confined mainly to the small and tiny sectors, the beneficiaries lack capacity to invest in upgraded technology.
3. The functioning of cocoon markets does not permit reelers to obtain a steady supply of uniform quality of bivoltine cocoons due to the lack of systems for grading and direct linkages with cocoon growers. Without this, reelers are unable to produce a uniform quality of silk and therefore to achieve a gradable silk or get a remunerative price for their produce.
4. Seed supply is unreliable for both quality as well as disease freeness. Controls by the State Governments on licensed seed producers are so poor that they are unauthorisedly crossing hybrids and to sell untested, unauthorized and un guaranteed seeds to the farmers. In turn their supply of seed cocoons for producing silkworm seeds lack proper grading and sorting.
5. Release of funds and motivations by Governments to the department of sericulture is less than in other sector.
6. While producers say they have shown a readiness to learn new skills and techniques, and most are committed to sericulture, some nevertheless point out the continuing technical challenge they face in producing high quality guti and the limited scope for sustainability which exists.
7. Lack of access to infrastructure like land, water, electricity, machinery, credit for
working capital, attitude of people working in the financial institutions pose
limitations.
8. Everyone feels that sericulture can be effective but minor oversights or shortage of
appropriate technical support may bring a poor result and create frustration for the
farmer. Therefore each stage needs great care in time, continuity of a support
program along with a smooth marketing channel, which allows the sharing of
benefits among all classes.
9. Technicians, Agricultural Officers and farmers have pointed out several
problems, concerning technical knowledge training, materials and rearing houses.
Main focus should be given to these aspects, in addition to related problems such as
diseases, insect pests, mulberry varieties and silkworm races.
10. High input costs, high domestic taxes and high energy charges are some of the
constraints of expanding industries in Africa.
11. As the textile industry has a very large potential for increasing employment opportunities in the country, the present labour laws need to be reviewed in the context of re-training and redeployment of workers. Export led growth in textiles in a global market scenario is possible only with large investments in the key areas of industry, particularly in weaving, knitting, processing and apparel. The technology in these critical sub-sectors
of the textile industry needs immediate upgradation to international levels.
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